Cumbria Scenes – 31.3.12


Ennerdale from Green Gable

And this is the other picture: Ennerdale once more, seen now from its head and not its foot.
The scene is now from Green Gable, the smaller, grassier, perpetually overlooked of the two Gables, not well seen, except from east or west, and even then its neat, clean lines and its small, peaked summit, are still ignored in favour of its bulkier, rockier, more demanding brother.
Yet Green Gable’s uncluttered summit, and its subsidiary position, make it a superior viewpoint for Ennerdale, where it, more than Great Gable, occupies the head of the valley.
Again we seen Ennerdale’s great, almost straight length, and the plantations near the head of the valley in stark contrast to the paler green of the cleared sections. Further down the valley, craggy Pillar’s sharp shadows are not enough to conceal even greater battalions of trees, controlling much of the valley to the head of the Lake itself, glimpsed at a distance.
Pillar is even more dominant in this view than in yesterday’s scene. Here, it displays a little of its back, and the Mosedale mountains dependent upon it.
To the right of the picture, the green moorlands beyond Ennerdale’s moraine-bestrewed head occupy the foreground, before the irascible Haystacks, home to the recently-featured Innominate and Blackbeck Tarns. Beyond is High Crag, the third fell of the High Stile range, topped by High Stile itself: now Red Pike is invisible.
There is a glimpse of Starling Dodd, and, beyond it, the setting for yesterday’s picture, Great Borne, with the subsidiary ground of Bowness Point lying below it.
Though we’re now in the high hills of the background of yesterday’s scene, this view is easier to achieve than the first. From the top of Honister Pass, a steep but short ascent along the tracks of the old railway brings you onto those moorlands. A number of paths – the route to Great Gable and the infamous Moses’s Trod among them – will take you along the flank of the hills that build to Gable, and there is even no need to climb Green Gable to see into and along Ennerdale like this.
But it’s much more fun if you do.

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